The Search for Mount Brown: 1892 & 1893

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Early maps of Mount Hooker and Mount Brown showed the two mountains as the highest points in Canada. (Botanist David Douglas had crossed the Athabasca Pass in 1827 and charted the two mountains with elevations of 15,000 and 16,000 feet. Dr. James Hector confirmed the heights when he climbed Mount Brown, on the Palliser Expedition of 1857 – 59.) Coleman saw the far off mountains as a challenge. In 1888 he had set out for Mount Brown but had to turn back. He was determined to try again.

In the summers of 1892 and 1893 Coleman organised two expeditions to explore the region in the Rockies between the headwaters of the Saskatchewan and the Athabasca Rivers.

The region lies between two fairly well known passes, the Howse pass, leading from the Saskatchewan to the Columbia, and the Athabasca pass, following up Whirlpool river from its junction with the Athabasca and following down Wood river, a tributary of the Columbia.

The object of the expedition was mainly topographical, to explore an interesting unexplored region and especially to determine the height of Mt. Brown, reputed the highest mountain in Canada.

— A.P. Coleman, "Notes on the Geology of the Rocky Mountains between the Saskatchewan and the Athabasca."
The American Geologist. 14 (August 1894): 83

Map/ Diagram. "Sketch Map ... showing all that was known in 1896 of the main Rocky Mountain range northwards of Mount Balfour to the Athabasca Pass." in Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies, 66
Map/ Diagram. J. Norman Collie. “Sketch Map of the Candian Rocky Mountains - 1897 - 1898 - 1900 - 1902 [detail],” in Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies
Map/ Diagram. J. Norman Collie. “Sketch Map of the Candian Rocky Mountains - 1897 - 1898 - 1900 - 1902,” in Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies
Notebook. A.P. Coleman. “Friday Aug. 26, Camp G” in Notebook 13 1892, [pages 35 - 39]
Drawing / Illustration. A.P. Coleman. Glacier South of Fortress Lake, Misty Mountain in Sketchbook 1a 1892, [page 27]
Artifact. Paul Wilson. Aneroid barometer. ROM Department of Natural History
Artifact. Paul Wilson. Clinometer. ROM Department of Natural History

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Bar. 9. 25.17
Bar. 1.30 25.15
Boiling pt. ther. 1.30 203.7° = 4,503 ft.
Air Temp. 56°

Saw Devil’s Clubs in the woods on our way up Misty Creek. Have named the creek above & the mt. we climbed above glacier Misty Mt.

Raining today at our new camp on the delta under a large spruce. More shelter than under our other tree. I put the raft together this morning hoping to go up the lake in it, but

Notebook. A.P. Coleman. "Friday Aug. 26, Camp G" in Notebook 13 1892, page 35

a squall with thunder & rain came on & prevented.

Our expedition has failed & I am thoroughly disappointed & disheartened. I have toiled like a slave, spent nearly $500.00 and have no results to show. I am simply a fool. A worse fizzle never took place. Five white men & 2 indians with 13 ponies – barometers, boiling pt. ther. [boiling point thermometer], glacier rope & alpenstocks; all for this fizzle!

I am disgusted & kick myself when I think of it, and that is all the time I am awake.

Here as the end of all I am sitting chilly, under a tree in ragged clothing with boots patched & going to pieces & worst of all a thoroughly discouraged heart. My summer is wasted. Set off with the raft, its ends bound with the once used glacier rope. Reached the camp at the head of the lake quite late, having wasted

Notebook. A.P. Coleman. "Friday Aug. 26, Camp G" in Notebook 13 1892, page 37

time after a duck which Mr. S. wounded & shot at several times before getting it. A half fledged duckling it proved to be, & pretty well torn to pieces.

It is raining again hard & making things uncomfortable for L. baking bannocks. Our tree shelters very fairly, & the drift wood furnishes good wood; but I am angry & disgusted with my defeat.

I must come again next summer & try again, having things more under my own control.

We expect to reach the main camp tomorrow, but I doubt if we do.

Notebook. A.P. Coleman. "Friday Aug. 26, Camp G" in Notebook 13 1892, page 39